Learning about Islam

The taxi driver saw Ed looking at the digital counter strapped to his right index finger.  Typical of the openness of people here, he said to Ed, “it is for Thanks God”.  And he clicked it.  His goal was to say thanks God (presumably in Arabic) 10,000 times (he did not specify the time frame, but Ed is convinced that he meant in one day).  While we frequently see men carrying prayer beads, it appears that the counter is a more modern way to pray.

One of the best aspects of traveling or living in another country is the opportunity to learn.  We have found people here very willing to answer questions on a variety of topics.  Although we have spent time in other countries that are primarily one religion (Iceland and Ireland come to mind) and we have traveled in other Muslim countries and visited mosques, living in Jordan has provided us with a wonderful opportunity to learn more about Islam.  We have also learned many new words to describe important aspects of the faith.

Seventh Day Adventist Church in Amman

There are Some Christian Churches

Islam is the second largest religion in the world (after Christianity), professed by almost 25% of the world population. In Jordan there are almost 6000 mosques.  Islam is a monotheistic religion as are Christianity and Judaism.  The basic pillars of the faith are: declaration of faith in Allah, praying five times a day, giving money to charity, fasting, and making the hajj or pilgrimage to Mecca at least once if at all possible.  Of particular note is the lack of proselytizing.  While many other religions believe it is important to convert others to their faith, as evidenced by Catholic missionaries, Jehovah’s Witnesses knocking on our door, or Mormons doing their two years of missionary service, Muslims seem content to practice their religion without trying to convert anyone.  However, conversion is simple.  It is not required that you study the Qur’an or go to Islamic classes.  It is only required that one perform the Shahadah, which is professing that “there is no God but Allah, and Muhammad is his messenger” three times, sincerely, and in front of witnesses.

Sign on a Mosque

The First Part Says "In the name of Allah, the most beneficent, the most merciful"

 

 

Minaret at a Mosque in Jerash

 



Prior to praying or entering a mosque, ritual washing is practiced and shoes are removed.  Mosques will always have stools and faucets for washing.  For times when praying is not at a mosque, washing also occurs if possible.  However, if it is not possible to wash, one can certainly pray without washing.  Around puberty is when it is expected for children to participate fully in prayers.  Typically boys will start to go to the mosque with their fathers around the age of 8 and girls will be introduced to praying at home at the same time.  Girls are exempt from praying during their menstrual period because you must be clean to pray and this is considered a period when the girl is not clean.  Since we have gone onto winter time the third prayer of the day, ‘Asr, is now at 2:24 PM (It changes by a few minutes every day).  Since my class starts at 3 PM, there is now time for my colleague and the students to pray before class.  I have encountered my colleague, who dresses Western style and does not wear a hijab (head scarf), in the ladies room prior to prayer time.  She takes the ritual washing literally and can manage to put her feet in the sink, one at a time, to be clean for prayers.  I have seen prayer rugs in many of the faculty offices.  Thinking that women tend to stand to pray, I asked our Administrative Assistant if the prayer rug near her desk was hers.  She said, “yes, everyone uses them; prayer rugs are unisex”. 

Prayers at the mosque are led by an imam; he will also deliver the Friday sermon.  I have been told that the imams are paid by the government.  They have no special education or qualifications such as would be typical of Catholic priests or Protestant ministers.  A recent article in the Jordan Times said that 23 imams were suspended “for violating the regulations”.  While it did not elaborate on their offenses, the article continued that “the ministry wants mosque sermons to promote Islam”.  I suspect that in many other countries the sermon is more political than religious, but Jordan works hard to be the moderate peaceful country in the Middle East. 

Fasting is done primarily at Ramadan from dawn to sunset.  During that time no water, food or smoking is permitted.  Asking my colleagues about this, I am told that if a person fasts, he will also abide by the smoking prohibition.  I wonder if cigarette sales plummet during Ramadan.  Because the Islamic calendar is lunar, the dates for Ramadan move forward each year by about 11 days.  While the date for the start of the fasting period is set, it in fact only begins with the sighting of the moon.  In 2015, it is scheduled to begin at sunset on June 17 and run for 30 days.  This will correspond with the longest number of hours of daytime, at a very hot time of year.  One must be very serious about his religion to abstain from food or drink during that time.  Small children, pregnant and nursing mothers, and those who are ill are exempt from the expectation.

My vocabulary is expanding.  A qibla indicates the direction to face when praying.  Muslims the world over face Mecca when they pray.  We have noted these on the ceiling in two of the hotel rooms that we have occupied.  For meat to be considered halal, it must be slaughtered by a Muslim, in a specific manner, with the butcher saying ‘Allahu akbar’ (God is most great) prior to death.  I have also been told that the head of the animal should be aligned with the qibla.  My fashion vocabulary is also expanding.  An abayah is the long black garment worn by women.  When you see women walking on the street at night in busy traffic, my heart skips a beat.  They are virtually impossible to see and I expect that momentarily there will be another traffic fatality.  Some women wear a niqab, typically black, but sometimes white, which covers their face from just below the eyes.  When eating, they lift it slightly and sneak the food under the veil.  I have also seen women in an abayah and niqab wearing black cloth gloves.  The long white robe that men wear is a dishdash or thawb, and the headdress is a kaffiyeh often held in place by an igal (agal) which is the rope circle.

 

Qibla on the Ceiling of a Hotel Room Indicating the Direction for Mecca

 

Woman in an Abayah and  Niqab

 

Old Man in a Kaffiyeh

 

So, the opportunity to learn more about the culture and religion continues.  It makes me even more aware of the importance of providing our students with opportunities to learn about the people of the world.  I am grateful for the many experiences that I have had, traveling and meeting people from many different cultures.